tripleklek

Every year for the last 3 years Luca and me have been coming to Bali.

Every time Luca said he wanted to learn to surf but we always spent most of the time in Ubud, a village in the hills, and worked.

And the, back in Bangkok, he always complained that he could not surf in Bali.

This time, after spending almost one year in Italy, we planned to come back again and this time Luca was really determined to surf.

So, we rented a house for 4 months in Balangan, just 4 km from the beautiful Balangan beach.

Yesterday we went with Paolo and Valeria to Kuta to buy surfboards.
I don’t know anything about surf, so I was surprised to learn that the size and shape of the table depends on the surfer.

It took a few hours walking around the streets of Kuta and visiting many shops but finally we got two second hand surfboards for Luca and Valeria.
Luca paid about 120 euro for his board.

This morning we woke up at 6:30 for the first day surfing, but it started to rain heavily so we had to wait.
When the rain stopped we met Paolo and Valeria and went to Seminyak, a beach not far from Kuta.

There I saw many surfers who follow their dream, with the surfboard sliding on the waves, looking happy to do what they love.
Then I looked at Luca who was trying to get on the board and catch a wave.
He did so many times, and many times he fell, but he didn’t give up.

Of course I can’t compare him with the experienced surfers out there, but I wish he could be like them soon.

Before, when I saw people surfing on TV, I had the impression that it was an easy sport, because they looked so light and fast on the waves.
I thought that anybody who can swim, can easily surf too.

But today, when I saw Luca in the sea, I changed my mind, and understood it takes time and passion to be able to fly on the waves.

Luca today could not stand but I think he will do it one day.
Before I didn’t understand why he wanted to surf, but now I do.

It doesn’t even matter if  he will learn to surf or not.
What matters is that he is doing what he likes, as the real happiness is in trying to fulfill his dreams.